I Thought China Only Copied Luxury. Then I Went There...
By Tanner Leatherstein
Summary
Topics Covered
- Perfect Craft Can Hide A Borrowed Identity
- I Carried The Answer In My Hands
- Mastery Has Two Stages, And You Can't Skip The First
- Fear Is Just Recognition That Something Changed
- China's Rise Is A Mirror, Not A Threat
Full Transcript
Made in China. Three words that carry more weight right now than at any point in modern history. There are tariffs being built around them. Trade wars being fought over them.
Entire political careers being staked on what they mean or what people fear they mean.
Everyone has an opinion about those three words. Most of it is fear. And I think, I think the fear is changing, shifting into something more complicated, more interesting. Because
in my work, dissecting the world's most expensive bags and leather goods, I keep finding something I wasn't supposed to find. Evidence. Evidence that
something is happening inside those three words. Something the headlines aren't capturing.
So I went, not to argue economics, not to take a political position. I went as a craftsman with one question. Can China make great things? This wasn't my first time in China. I have been here
one question. Can China make great things? This wasn't my first time in China. I have been here before for work, for sourcing, passing through. But this was the first trip with long enough time and a clear enough purpose to actually get to the bottom of this. Because here
is the thing most people don't think about. Almost every bag I have ever cut open in my career from the cheapest fast fashion to the most expensive European luxury had China somewhere in its story. The hardware, the lining, sometimes the leather itself, sometimes the entire construction.
its story. The hardware, the lining, sometimes the leather itself, sometimes the entire construction.
China has been making the world's things for decades at every quality level for every brand at every price point. I have seen their work up close from the inside and for a long time the picture was consistent, technically capable, occasionally impressive, but mostly in
service of someone else's vision, making what they were told to make for whoever was paying. What I
wanted to understand on this trip was whether that picture had changed. Whether China had started making things for itself. I started where any honest investigation has to start: at the bottom. The copy markets. Here I came to the Baiyun Leather Trading Center. There are a
the bottom. The copy markets. Here I came to the Baiyun Leather Trading Center. There are a few buildings here full of leather shops, leather bag shops. They have fakes, they have replicas, they have their own designs, various level of quality and price points. As soon as you hop out of your car, your cab, people try to snatch you, or there's a lot of solicitors outside. If you have
never been, it's hard to describe the experience. Every major brand you have ever heard of, replicated. Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Prada, you name it, everything, at every grade
replicated. Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Prada, you name it, everything, at every grade of quality from laughable to genuinely convincing. And the scale of it is not the most striking thing. The most striking thing is the craftsmanship. Some of this work, the stitching,
striking thing. The most striking thing is the craftsmanship. Some of this work, the stitching, the hardware, finishing, the material selection is technically impressive. Not all of it, not most of it, but enough of it that you stop and think. These hands know what they're doing.
They're just not making anything of their own. There are literally many more of them doing all kind of replicas. So, many more floors. But now, to have this many manufacturers and shops, I assume they have the materials available, the leather and hardware, and it's all in the same neighborhood. So, we're going to walk towards where the materials are sold to see
same neighborhood. So, we're going to walk towards where the materials are sold to see what's available to these makers. From the copy markets, I moved into my specific world, the leather suppliers, leather markets, the places that feed the manufacturing chain. After a quick DD ride, we arrive at another plaza. They exclusively sell leather,
chain. After a quick DD ride, we arrive at another plaza. They exclusively sell leather, all kinds of leathers. They have pebble leathers, Togo leathers, leathers from Europe, suedes, veg-tans. We're going to quickly go in and see what they have. Wow. This is
suedes, veg-tans. We're going to quickly go in and see what they have. Wow. This is
uh, it's baby calf. Insane quality suede. The king of suedes. It's one of the points, like if you have access to these kind of materials, you can pretty much do anything. This is a great leather dealer. They have lots of really, really good leathers. Most rawhides are from Europe, and they
dealer. They have lots of really, really good leathers. Most rawhides are from Europe, and they say it's tanned in China. So when you have access to this kind of material, you can literally do anything. So that's one of the key components that China can really make good stuff in here.
anything. So that's one of the key components that China can really make good stuff in here.
And here the picture got more complicated and more frustrating because there was good work here. Genuinely good work. Technical mastery, impressive production, materials
here. Genuinely good work. Technical mastery, impressive production, materials that could hold their own against anything I have seen in European factories.
But it was buried, buried under an avalanche of mediocrity. Copying was so ubiquitous, it had become the default mode. The assumption in every room I walked into was, "What are we copying? What are we replicating here?" Not "What are we making here?"
The authenticity, the local, the original, the genuinely Chinese was almost impossible to find. Like looking for a specific voice in a room where everyone is doing impressions.
find. Like looking for a specific voice in a room where everyone is doing impressions.
I wasn't planning to visit a Xiaomi store, but I walked past one and went in. And for a moment, a real moment, I forgot everything I had been feeling. The cars were beautiful, genuinely beautiful. The design, the materials, the way things were presented. I found myself thinking
beautiful. The design, the materials, the way things were presented. I found myself thinking I would live here just to drive these cars, just to have access to these things. This is
unbelievable. Like this feels like topline luxury car, like Ferrari-ish Porsche feeling inside. And then I picked up a phone, and it looked like an iPhone. Not inspired by,
feeling inside. And then I picked up a phone, and it looked like an iPhone. Not inspired by, not adjacent to, the shadow of it was right there in the proportions, the camera layout. The interface language, the laptops, too. The cars I admire so much had a huge
layout. The interface language, the laptops, too. The cars I admire so much had a huge hint of Porsche in them. I couldn't ignore it. The technical mastery was undeniable, but the creative identity was still borrowed. Still looking over someone else's shoulder. I walked out with
one question I couldn't shake. Why? When you are this capable, why do you still need to look like someone else? That question followed me for the rest of the day. The next morning, I got into a DD headed to Shenzhen. We are in another DD and again, it's an electric car.
As I said, I'm so blown away how common the electric cars are here. And all of them are Chinese brands. They're local brands. This is a BYD. I had been in Chinese cars before,
Chinese brands. They're local brands. This is a BYD. I had been in Chinese cars before, but something made me actually look at this one. The interior was quiet, considered. The
materials were chosen with intention, not copying a German luxury car, not trying to be something European. It had its own logic, feeling, its own confidence. And I felt something
European. It had its own logic, feeling, its own confidence. And I felt something I hadn't felt once in the coffee markets or the leather suppliers. A glimmer. Not proof,
not an answer, just a crack in the wall I had been looking for this whole trip. I
started filming. Not because I planned to use it, just because the thought was building and I needed to catch it before it dissolved. And as I filmed, holding up my camera to catch the moment, I looked at what was in my hand. DJI. I have used DJI for years, loved it, trusted
it. I recommend it to anyone who asked, and I had genuinely, never, not once, stopped to sit
it. I recommend it to anyone who asked, and I had genuinely, never, not once, stopped to sit with the fact that this was Chinese. Not because I was avoiding it, because it never felt relevant.
The work was just great. The craft was just great. The product did exactly what I needed it to do better than anything else I had used with a design confidence that I admired without ever interrogating where it came from. I had been carrying the answer in my hands the whole
trip. China can make great things. I had known it for years. I just hadn't named it.
trip. China can make great things. I had known it for years. I just hadn't named it.
I arrived in Shenzhen already changed, not convinced yet, but open. The question had shifted from can they to where else. The mall I went to was unlike anything I had seen on this trip. Every major international brand, every major Chinese tech company, Huawei in particular. I spent
trip. Every major international brand, every major Chinese tech company, Huawei in particular. I spent
time there and I understood immediately why it's not just a technology company. It's a
statement about what China is becoming. But what I was looking for was something in my own world.
And I turned a corner, then found it. I knew Songmont before this trip. I had dissected their work. I respected what I found. A Chinese brand making leather goods at a level I didn't
work. I respected what I found. A Chinese brand making leather goods at a level I didn't expect and couldn't dismiss. But what I needed in that moment after BYD, after holding my DJI camera and understanding what it meant, was confirmation in my own field and
the store gave it to me immediately. Not just the quality of the bags, though it was there genuinely about most successful western brands I could name. What stopped me was the identity.
This didn't look like anyone else. The design language was completely, confidently Asian.
The materials, the forms, the merchandising, the packaging, none of it was looking over someone else's shoulder. None of it was filtered through a European aesthetic. It had
arrived somewhere entirely on its own. That was what I felt in the BYD on the way there. That was what the DJI in my hand had been telling me for years. Creative confidence,
there. That was what the DJI in my hand had been telling me for years. Creative confidence,
a vision that belongs to no one else. That is what great things look like wherever they come from. Here is what I think and understand now. Mastery is not a destination. It's
come from. Here is what I think and understand now. Mastery is not a destination. It's
a journey with distinct stages. And those stages are not optional. You cannot skip them. No matter how talented you are or how fast you move, the first stage is apprenticeship.
them. No matter how talented you are or how fast you move, the first stage is apprenticeship.
You learn by copying. You study the masters. You replicate their work. You do what you're told. This is not a shameful stage. Every craftsman who has ever lived has passed
you're told. This is not a shameful stage. Every craftsman who has ever lived has passed through it. Every tradition, Italian leather work, Japanese woodworking, French tailoring
through it. Every tradition, Italian leather work, Japanese woodworking, French tailoring began with someone copying someone else. China, at a national scale, has been in this stage for decades. They became the workshop of the world. They made everything for everyone and
for decades. They became the workshop of the world. They made everything for everyone and in doing so they accumulated something that cannot be faked, that cannot be bought. Technical mastery
at scale. The hands, the infrastructure, the institutional knowledge of how things are made. They have it fully and undeniably. But there is a second stage, and this
made. They have it fully and undeniably. But there is a second stage, and this is the one most people, most countries, most companies, most craftsmen struggle to cross. It is
the moment you stop asking, "What should I make?" and start asking, "What do I want to say through my work?" It is the moment you look at everything you have learned, everything you have built
my work?" It is the moment you look at everything you have learned, everything you have built every skill you have accumulated, and you decide to express yourself through it rather than serve someone else with it. That is not a technical transition. It's a psychological one. It requires
confidence. The kind that only comes from truly knowing your worth. Creative confidence.
A vision that is truly yours. And what I saw in that car, in the camera, in my hand, in a store in the Shenzhen Mall: is China crossing that line? Not all of China, not yet. The copy
markets are still full. The mediocrity is still loud. The shadow of imitation is still long. But the crossings are happening in leather, in cars, in cameras. And when a country
long. But the crossings are happening in leather, in cars, in cameras. And when a country this size with this level of skill fully crosses that line, what comes out the other side will be extraordinary. Remember those tariffs, those trade wars we talked about? I want to come back
be extraordinary. Remember those tariffs, those trade wars we talked about? I want to come back to them for a moment because I think they mean something different now than they did at the start of this trip. Fear is not always irrational. Sometimes fear is just recognition.
Recognition that something is changing, that something you understood is no longer what it was. The economic fear of China is in part the fear of exactly what I witnessed. A
country on the edge of the second stage. A country that is about to stop just making your things and start competing with your things on quality, on identity, on craft. That is worth taking seriously. But here is what I also think is true. The answer for craftsmen, for brands,
seriously. But here is what I also think is true. The answer for craftsmen, for brands, for anyone who makes things with their hands and their minds, it's not fear. It's not tariffs and walls and the politics of protection. The answer is to be more of yourself. Because the one
thing Songmont cannot copy, the one thing BYD cannot replicate, the one thing no Chinese factory, however skilled, can manufacture is your specific voice, is your specific vision, your specific reason for making whatever that is you're making. If you're making things that
anyone could make defined only by a label or a logo, then yes, you should be afraid. But if
you're making things that could only come from you, then China's rise is not a threat.
It's a mirror showing you exactly what you need to become. I came to China to answer a question: can China make great things? Yes, they can. And they are. And they are only getting started. But the more important question, the one this trip actually handed me, is the one I
started. But the more important question, the one this trip actually handed me, is the one I now carry back to my own work: am I making things that are truly mine? Things that expresses something specific about craft, about material, about sincere luxury, I keep talking about that couldn't come from anywhere else. Because if I am, then I have nothing to fear from anyone.
And if I am not, then I'm just another label. This trip reminded me why that distinction is everything. I will keep going back to China, to Italy, to wherever the craft is being
everything. I will keep going back to China, to Italy, to wherever the craft is being done honestly because the story of how things are made, really made, is most important story I know how to tell and I would love for you to keep following it with me.
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