Passion for Scent: the True Story of Perfume

[Music] the Baro era was a very odorous era the canals of Venice were one large open sewer this is only surprising because it

was an age famed for its ostentation today unimaginable washing is frowned upon however at the time the industry of

perfume did not lay in Paris in France it was instead the old trading city of Venice that produced a perfumer offering a totally new scent to the aristocratic

world of the 1800s Giovani Maria Vina was suskin inspired by F's life story to write his world famous novel perfume the rulers of the world had

succumbed to F's perfume which was indeed goldworthy a perfume that went down in history how much of this history is to be found in susk Skin's novel and can we

still find traces of far's Legacy in the [Music]

present [Music]

it's the year 1709 as the first customer for F's perfume is written into the secret book of the family business it's also the same year that he founds the company of the same name a company that

until this day remains in the hands of the family his revolutionary scent is a tribute to his new hometown of cologne he calls it Oda

cologne far's list of customers stands as a who's who of the Barack era and the new roko era princes and princesses kings and queens Emperors and empresses

there is nearly no one of note that had not ordered it after being overcome by the scent among them also artists such as voler Gerta and

Mozart even the French Revolution could not sweep away the odor of the ancient regime Napoleon allegedly ordered the fragrance in liters in small bottles

that he could slide in on the inside of his boots fara's success story was indeed the stuff of fairy [Music]

tales for this reason I suspect that susk Skin's inspiration was Farina however the story of this gifted composer of sense begins not in in the stinking fish market in Paris as the

story of greni the murderer of ssin's Novel but in the idelic settings of the sweet smelling climbs of Northern Italy's

[Music] mountains to be exact in Pont in the valley of veto above like major in a

town that was co-founded by his ancestors in the 1500s Sant Maria majori the FAS saved themselves from the plague of anona in the clean healthy air

of the mountains in piety and thanks to God they donated freely to the town over

[Music] generations and it was in this simple rural world that Giovani farino was born

here is the house in which he was born on December the 8th 1685 when he first saw the light of day and the first time that he smell his surroundings even as a small boy Giovani

hated the bad smells of the ordinary people's homes the overcooked cabbage or the pungent body odors he tried to spend

as much time as possible away from the [Music] village the farinas did not belong to the poorer

Society those who lived in small houses where the combined stench of entire family remained in the one shared room nevertheless he did have to visit them

the stink was overbearing for this sensitive boy with his finely tuned old factory senses it was like a flawed note to a highly trained musical

[Music] ear first part of our life is the most important part what smell and smelling and nose concern the first moment in

life when you smell a smell is the essential moment and that remain the source of that specific smell for the rest of your life so will you smell

something uh that moment that context the mood of that cont emotional that context be it positive or negative will then be your relation to that smell for

the rest of your life so um childhood is very very important for smell and smelling so later in life you just uh

remember that very moment and it's hard to change your relation to the smell but for Giovani not everything smells bad he's captivated by the fresh

bloomy scent of the springtime in the Italian mountains which later became the note that would distinguish his legendary perfume the pinkster Lily also known as Mountain narcissist

impregnating the spring air it is a scent that strengthens the self assurance narcissist the name comes from a figure in Greek mythology which

was turned into a flower narcissist who fell desperately in love with his own Mirror Image also Susan's lonely monster leaves the city for the smell of the

remote mountains or be it setting the scented Meadows in the south of France Giovani loves these flowers that give off their heady sweet fragrance across the fields throughout the months of

April and May the smell not only permeates giovan's life from his childhood on it is exactly this smell that would Inspire his revolutionary perfume which would be

the key to his [Music] success [Music]

in my work that is where I concentrate most to try to trigger children at a very early stage in life to also use the nose for the purpose to perceive their

surrounding full time you know by understanding the surrounding with the nose you understand it much more fundamental and much deeper and much and you remember it for much longer time and

and I think it's important you know we are tired of the look of things it's all about look look look we understand let's say the issue of environmental you know

issues and questions much more deep if we understand it with our noses we all carry these memories from childhood with us and all of them are

connected sents as well but these scent associations throughout the childhood happen so quickly that we are unconscious of their existence in the case of Gabrielle

Chanel we know she was brought up in a very strict environment also in regards to her or factory senses an environment that was very

strict very clear and very pure this pess and Clarity was what she aimed to reproduce in her perfume

coko Chanel managed to create probably the most famous perfume in the world to this day one can also find in kooko Chanel's autobiography parallels to ssin's fictional main

character Jean Baptist grui retreats to an isolated cave in the oran before moving to Grass Chanel also lived as a poor orphan in a Convent in Oran her

experiences there were the inspiration for her later Creations in devout regions frankincense and me are smells that Infuse the

landscape with its churches monasteries and the pilgrimage sites Giovani was also influenced by the smells of the

church the Vedo Valley is also home to the famous pilgrimage site of V at the age of only 14 Giovani had to turn his back on the smells of his

childhood as he embarked on his Grand Tour a right of passage that all young men of good background had to undertake at the time he not only had to leave his

parents but also the trusted smells that have accompanied him throughout his [Music]

childhood his first destination was Venice and already on his way discovers new smells for his senses the water water Now does not smell as pure as the

fresh Springs he'd smelt as he grew up here the water was brackish and had to be boiled before it was fit for consumption a kettle was hung over the

fire constantly drinkable water has always been one of life's [Music] Essentials herbs are not only the medicine of this age they enhance the

smell and taste of the cooked water Melissa has a calming effect stinging nettles are used to cleanse the system mint is used for its healing and fortifying

properties all of these smells are beneficial to giovan's Growing Old Factory senses it is the time of the generic Miracle Water oh

admira fragrant herbs and flower extracts are intended not only for external use but especially internal usage Giovani would learn more about such matters during his time in

Venice in 1699 Giovani finally arrived in the town built on a lagoon Venice it was his first sensory experience of life in a

big city sadly not everything smelled good here in this town where the faces hide behind masks most of the year the sewage and feces of the houses and

palaces run unfiltered directly into the countless channels of the city this potent brackish cocktail eats away at the very Stone of the buildings but the tides mean that the smells have a

certain regularity and high tide brings the fresh smell of the sea Venice is very you know due to the humidity it's

very damp yeah very wet I think was a mud muddy smell and wet stone in giovan's time the smells of

Venice were far more multifaceted at the time Venice was the gateway to the rich and opulent Orient the Lush Splendor of the serenisima or the most Serene Republic of Venice is Untouched

by the suffering of the time as Wars rage across the rest of Europe a touch of the Exotic permeates the air as the Wares of the new world are brought to this

landhub spices and rare Essences from the Orient join the array of odors of the city Venice was then as it is now a city of Pleasures for those who could afford

it the city offered its famous carnivals members of the Bourgeois nobility and the clergy throng to the city from all over Europe it's not only class barriers

that were broken down Behind The Masks but also inhibitions the intoxication of this extravagant joviality gives Wings to all the senses Venice is not only a firework

display of large and small vanities but but also a Melting Pot for Creative Minds an inspiration for artists of every type it is in particular a great

inspiration for the perfumer fine noses they may not be able to see who is behind the mask but they can smell them later KOCO Chanel also took inspiration from the splendorous Barack

flourishers of the serenisima in particular venice's palaces Giovani reads the faces and masks like a book he observes an in na s

his surroundings with his fine nose he lets the city wash over his senses as did Koko Chanel and later translates his Al Factory Impressions to

paper Venice is a hugely inspiring City filled with mysticism and symbolism take the line of St Mark the

famous winged lion which symbolizes the Holiness The Gospel According to Mark as a symbol of the Venetian colonies it combines incorporates the sense of the

world the wealth and the luxury it was this that inspired Koko Chanel The Majestic and Sublime winged lion is omnipresent throughout the

entire city the opulent and exuberant Venice of Barack times is reflected in the Italian literature of the time Giovani Farina K

Chanel and Patrick tuskin all find their fantasies inspired by the writings of this scented City like Giovani Koko Chanel wrote meticulous notes about her impressions

of Venice it was also her inspiration for her world famous Chanel Number Five perfume the coffee houses of Venice were very characteristic of the city and

fen's time then as now they are the meeting place for intellectuals and AR artists Giovani farino also spent his time here as did later customers for his

cologne House of perfume among them Casanova Gerta Lord Byron and Balzac it's no surprise the coffee houses were not only an expression of the sign of

the times but also a great neutralizer of the less palatable smells Cafe floran was one of the first of its kind in Europe and exists to this

very day 300 years later the original atmosphere is still palpable through its luxurious Barack interior especially during the city's Carnival

season coffee houses like floran were a development at the end of the 17th century the hot beverage of the Ottoman Empire had been primarily used for medicinal

purposes as much as the cafe spread across the city at the time so did the range of perfumes head odors such as Amber mus sandalwood and civet were very

much in fashion at the time it was from such Oriental spices that giovan's great uncle Carlos Jer had produced his perfumes for the elite of

Venice jari so-called Miracle Waters or admirables were no less in demand one smell and one was enticed to smell as

good janari scented products came in all forms and spread throughout the people of the city whether it be a scented

powder scented salts or fragrant oils the citizens of Venice were cated from head to toe it was from his great uncle that Giovani learned the tools of his trade

from scratch it was here that he discovered what was obstructing the pure smell of mountain narcissi all the carrier substances in perfumes of the

day which carried their own distinctive smell giovan's learning starts with incenses he's inquisitive and quick to learn everything is defined by his sense

of smell similar to susk Skin's autistic main character greni good and evil love and sorrow his Keen perception detects subtle nuances

and he pragmatically learns the science of Al something the more modern scientists will soon [Music] discard he absorbs all around with a

deep breath his apprenticeship is an odor intense Journey Through the history of perfume perfumum is Latin for by means

of [Music] smoke history of sense is the history of humankind for example the ancient

Egyptians influenced the entirety of the western culture of fragrance fragrances were seen as an essential element of Life they were not only used in communication with the gods

and as a form of protection against Illness but also mixed with oil as protection against the Sun and for seduction of

there already existed a blooming perfume industry under the rule of the Pharaohs lies roses and highin flowers and herbs were already utilized as a means of

producing scents even the Egyptian mummies were embed with their own individual fragrances most of the precious oil-based Essences were preserved in the

finest Alabaster it wasn't only the Egyptians who produced unisex Fair fragances in contrast to farina's Barack

era washing and bathing were everyday rituals in Antiquity it was only the cleanly body that was further embellished with fragrance it was never

used as a smoke screen antique flacons were also increasingly seen as a status symbol but preferences of scent change over time

the Barack period saw the closure of numerous public baths by the chur Church body odors became penetrant and as a result the perfumes became intenser the taste of the times was

forever more elaborate receptacles embellishment was the order of the Day perfume bottles made from Morano glass were considered to be the epitome

of luxury his glass production was protected as a state secret by the Venetian Republic until the growth of porcelain in the 18th century Morano glass was

seen as the most precious man-made material for all sorts of receptacles in an effort to protect the city from the fires of the Blazing glass ovens glass production was moved to the

offshore island of Morano glass blowers still work on the island to this day producing handmade products from the precious material one of the best kept and most

treasured secrets of the island was the composition of multicolored glass betrayal of the secret was a crime punishable by

[Music] death however the glass industry didn't only produce luxurious colors and forms but also its own particular

odors Giovani finina loved Morano he philosophized about the smells here as he stopped by the glass blowers is it the smell of the scented wood that obscures the smell of the glass blowers

swe wet or is it the fresh sea water that makes the odor of the Craftsman seem more palatable as with susk Skin's protagonist Giovani becomes obsessed

with the smell of his fellow citizens smells that he files away in his brain like a precious scent in a Morano flen and there is another who shares

this passion Louis the 14th is a Sun King his spies managed to uncover the mystery of Morano glass soon after his private workshops in versailes begin to

produce the precious glass to house the perfume produced by his private [Music] perfume one cannot ignore the contribution of vers in the history of

perfume but before Versa there was the rule of Katherine deichi Katherine imported Essences and scents from Italy before the son King

Louis the 14th in 15 40 she personally oversaw the opening of the very first house of perfume in Paris coko Chanel held the queen in very high regard for her introduction and

establishment of Italian Renaissance to the Royal courts of France Chanel has even paid tribute to the queen in copying aspects of her fashion even Coco Chanel's Double C in

her logo was a direct tribute to the medicis she studied passionately the fonts of the age of in the Styles and fashion and felt herself connected to Catherine through their shared passion

for perfume as a fashion designer she produced Sleek Elegance combined with luxurious materials as a contrast to the

playful style of art deco an age as spirited and ornate as that of Baro or roko it is now that Giovani finina makes his first entrance to the opulent world

of the Bor rooms the stage for the world of [Music]

Elegance but even the finest garments and the most refined manners cannot cover up the bitter odors of nobility and citizens of servants and peasants

the heavily perfumed smell of the unwashed Collective is one that finina can never get used

[Music] to public bathing houses were forbidden in the Renaissance times directly after the Middle Ages bathing or washing was

seen to be the root of cause for numerous maladies instead rooms would be filled with scented smoke and the people would wear perfumed jewelry to Shield

from the smell of others and as a protection against illness a lack of hygiene and the stink of it all was not only something ordained by the clergy doctors also

advised against washing because water carried diseases even the elaborate clothing of the nobles was never washed because of the delicate

materials undergarments were also not commonplace powder sweat and body oils permeated the material of outer garments making the unpleasant odor a

constant it is no surprise that even the most noble materials became a breeding ground for insects that these parasites would carry disease was not as yet

known there were constantly new perfumes in an an attempt to cover up the disagreeable stench citrus fruits were known to be a

refreshment and a proven remedy for the illnesses of the time during the plague they had worked near Miracles not many perfumers had yet

discovered the value of these fruits as Giovani Farina realized their infinite [Music]

possibilities Giovani discovered a particular fruit which began to use the Bergamot far's greatest Innovation was the usage of this newly discovered raw

material the burgot which had been recently cultivated it was a period that saw the near domination of lemons and oranges as fruits and ornamental plants in the

Royal courts of Europe Giovani researched the many nuances of these exotic fruits he now has a feeling that he wants to be a perfumer and like greni and Coco he wants to create something

totally new for this he had to First create the right technical conditions what finina brings new to the whole equation was new technical conditions in particular the

distillation of pure alcohol and that the alcohol remained pure you have to imagine that in many cases the purchased alcohol retained the smell from which it had been

produced the art of distillation was also something that had been imported from the Orient in Venice The Alchemist refined and perfected the process it was

a fundamental but imperative process that every perfumer had to be able to execute perfectly it was the last blooming of alchemy in the burck era before the more

scientific practices of chemistry and pharmaceutics took over distillation is the process of separating different elements of a liquid by heating

[Music] them even the miracle Waters the OED miraas were made with this production technique with

distillation many Alchemists harbored Noble intentions with their Miracle Waters which were effective and therefore popularly used as a medicine it's no wonder that the symbols

for Alchemy would later be used as the symbols used by pharmacies an important development is already underway as Giovani came to Venice at

the turn of the 18th century alchemists became the modern natural scientists physicists chemists and pharmacists suddenly different methods

and techniques were being contemplated and refined with ever increasingly sophisticated apparatus Giovani produces an alcohol so

pure that even his fine nose is satisfied a pure natural smelling alcohol which would become the prerequisite for all of

his later compositions something totally new until then all perfumes had been oily or more solid like an

ointment but Giovani like suskin figure greni wanted to create a perfume that would Amaze the entire world with its components it shouldn't have the smell

of wheat or plums do you gained the necessary Knowledge from books the same books perhaps that Patrick suskin must have read later sukin makes reference to one

particular book lettera by magalotti to the Duke of Florence which also describes a man who possesses no natural odor like renui and then can

differentiate the smells [Music] impartially after having absorbed all the books and with a plentitude of new fragrances in

his nose Giovani leaves Venice he continues to explore the other scents on offer from around the world in a letter to his grandmother he wrote how different is Rome with its

enormous empty buildings and endless cobbled streets that are so dusty as to tickle the nose nothing evokes the Splendor of Venice

giovan's travels take him across Europe often passing the central Hub of Switzerland and along the lake of Geneva passing on the way the huge and gloomy castle of shilon until he eventually

reaches the south of France finally Giovani Farina reaches grass the setting for the Hideous crimes of grui although suskin rather describes

the close by Gordan for the arrival of his perfumer at the end of the wide Basin perhaps 2 miles off a town lay among or

better clung to the rising mountains the book continues although the sea was so near that one could see it from the top of the hills there was nothing

Maritime one does indeed have a view of the Cur from Gorda as well as a few of grass which lies next to a fortress in the

valley when f arrived in Grass perfumers were seen more as traveling salesmen a statue at the entrance to the Old City pays tribute to this

fact grass wasn't so important for finina finina was more important for grass grass was known more as a trading City and not for what was grown here as

such when finina began here grass was limited in sales and production areas when suskin sends his ingenious murderer to Grass the first perfume Factory had

just opened its doors the city of Tanners becomes a city of perfumers the city can look back on a thousand years of history but it was

only after the ordinance by the perfume obsessed Sun King that it became the Metropolis for perfume in the previous centuries grass had become famous for its leather tanneries

its location on the slopes of the estal mountains made it a natural location numerous Springs still Bubble Up across the city to this

day vast amounts of fresh water were used by the Tanners for their hides the Skins had to be first cleaned before they were tanned and then conserved with

alkalize it was everything else but a fragrant industry as the dangerous chemical compounds seeped through the winding streets even the finest gloves produced here still carried the reek of

the urine filled Morant pools this was deeply unsatisfactory for the elegant customers leather skins were hang out to dry all over in between the closely

built houses for susk Skin's character grui the pungent smell of ammonia was very comforting it was a smell from his

childhood as the book says it was a familiar odor to him it gave him a sense of security in every city he always

sought out the tanning District first and that in grass was PL oer in the center of the historic district this was where suskin grui sits to eat before

he carries out his murderous plan at the gates to Grass there The Fragrant Fields stretched out before the eye thanks to the efforts of the Sun King not only did

he further the cause of the perfume industry that exists until this day but he ordered and promoted the cultivation of roses Jasmine and other perfumed

plants Jasmine was imported to the south of France from Asia in the 17th century the first Fields were planted next to Grass Farina became infatuated with a

bouquet of this exotic plant and used it extensively and substantially as a component of his perfumes just as coko Chanel did later with her famous number five perfume today she still has the

Jasmine specially grown and treated in Grass again suskin used it as an important factor in his novel Patrik Patrick sukin was inspired

for his book by the life of Giovani Maria Farina all of the components used for His Marvelous Oda cologne appear in ssin's

book finina was the very first to combine the different Citrus scents in countless variations their leaves fruit and the

blossom but there was another flower that featured insus Skin's perfume the rose the queen of all flowers and by word for beauty and

femininity The Rose had already been cultivated for its Aroma in ancient times in Grass it has become a symbol because the fields stretched out until

the Horizon bestowing the town people with an air of prosperity it is exclusively the 100 Le provance Rose The Rose are Center Folia

that is harvested in the miles of climate of the catour its fragrance according to recent scientific findings can Aid in peaceful sleep and cure

[Music] headaches Rose fragrance the fragrance of the goddess of love Aphrodite hangs heavy in the air over the fields as

suskin grui commits his first murder for his perfume in May of that same year the naked body of a 15-year-old girl was

found in a Rose Field halfway between grass and the Hamlet of opio east of town the fictional murderer steals the scent of the dead girl's by use of pig's

fat this was the normal method formerly used to extract the essence from petals groi seems to be obsessed by the so-called enlage

process suskin goes into great detail about this methodology of extracting an Essence by use of fat the petals don't have to be heated up which would possibly destroy the sensitive

composition of the petals and harmonic mixture ratio of the individual components the bit of Remnant smell of the pig's fat is negligible against the fragrance of the Rose as long as tan

leather is impregnated with the smell but on the skin if one wants to get closer to one's beloved in contrast to greni F prefers

the smell of the mountain herbs and uses distillation to extract the basic components for his fragrances Giovani Farina learns to work with new apparatus not only for the

distillation of alcohol but also for the distillation of essential oils with this process it is the steam that extracts the aromatic molecules

from the plants as it cools down the molecules separate from the water through condensation the essential oils brought to the surface as an Essence on the

so-called hydrolate the condensed [Music]

water it was during farina's time that the market for these Essences became increasingly popular men were particularly interested in them above

all when their scent was heavy sweet and oily farina's refreshing scented Waters based upon an odor-free alcohol was something totally [Music]

new as was his usage of citrus fruits until that time they had only be used as a medicine and the peel then discarded as waste Giovani was the first to

produce a fragrant perfume from them combining them with a bouquet of herbs and petals to produce an even richer and more aromatic scent impossible to

imagine at the beginning of the 18th century initially the first customers were skeptical yes the smell of Orange Blossom and narrowly oil and water were

known and much sought after they were after all used by the Sun King by the Lita but an extract from a [Music]

bowl still Giovani Farina had not succeeded in perfecting his most significant creation however he had established the refreshing basic note and it is along

these lines that he will continue now now 5 years after setting off on his Grand Tour the boy has become a man one with a clearly defined goal in

mind one who won't be deterred from his path now he moves perfectly at home in the company of the big city he is vehemently opposed to his parents plan

to take up a business apprenticeship in mastr but initially unsuccessful it seems probable that he has no choice but to to become a

businessman however Giovani uses every opportunity to promote and extol his talents as a perfumer and for that he had exactly the right nose for the jovial and easygoing

age of roko and with his nose he is extremely successful his Creations sell very well

all over now his parents relent in the mean time his older brother Baptist has opened a shop for luxury items in Cologne the shop is

still standing after 300 years in no small part thanks to the perfume of Giovani and that needed more than simply a good [Music]

nose one has to contemplate it's not enough simply to have a good nose one also has to have the creativity to produce something new therefore this is often more important in the sense of

smell itself because it is only the creative mind that can conjure up such a fragrance it is exactly this creativity with which finina has been

bestowed as with all artists ideas grow and develop above all in the head the perfumer writes down his recipes constantly returning to refine them he

hangs on to his vision of the perfect fragrance the emotions that it should evoke and which feelings the smells of his surrounding environment induced many impressions are conjured

together by his recipe finally he's totally satisfied and sets off to cologne with his new fragrance most of all the smells of his

childhood inspired farina's fantasy in 1708 he writes to his brother I have created a fragrance that reminds me of a spring morning in Italy

just after it's rained the mountain narcy the orange

blossoms burgot and the herbs of my home it refreshes me and strengthens my senses and then of course there are other

components such as Sandalwood musk and also a touch of incense and other herbs like lavender this was the beginning of a long and successful

story depending on which country he found himself in Giovani would change his name to Johan or Jean he uses his r recipe as his

Financial deposit as he joins his brother as partner in his luxury good store in Cologne did Baptist realized the value of what he was holding in his hands as

he accepted giovan's deal giovan's recipe was eventually to be the success of the farinas in Cologne in the style of the Miracle

Water of O adira Giovani or now decides to name his most significant creation after the city where he will go into production o de

colog Jean and Baptist and the perfume that will conquer the world it is no accident that sukin greni carries the first names of Johan

Baptist Jean Baptist greni the man that invents a perfume that sends the inhabitants of the marketplace of grass into Realms of ecstasy the people of cologne were

indeed Intoxicated by the perfume of Jean and Baptist but not so many could afford it in contrast to today there wasn't an extensive customer base for

expensive perfumes perfumes in general were extremely expensive there's no comparison to now one must consider that

in 1720 a bottle of Oda cologne costed one rice T and in France 36 Lor that meant it was a luxury product

that few could afford put that into context that was about the monthly wage for Craftsmen including apprentices and everything else this was a product only

for the very well healed citizens but mainly for nobility one had only succeeded when an influential opinion leader became a customer at the time it was above all

the patronage of the French king and his court Louis the 15th made an order and then then all the other crowned heads of Europe followed

suit later the fragrance of new likeness was also to waft through the halls of s sui ordered by Frederick the great who had a fo for the French style of Life

his friend the philosopher Vol often visited him there he wrote that the fragrance had managed to cover up the smell of tobacco smoke despite the forbidding price of

the lavishly produced odor Frederick the great ordered vast amounts it was reported at the time that he could hardly wait for his delivery from

[Music] colog the small shop in Cologne transformed into a company operating Europe wide the news of this unique and

revolutionary fragrance spread like wildfire from court to court there were few Royal households that could resist the fragrance of the age that one was continually delivering to

these courts meant that one became a quasi pvea to the courts the rich bouro across the land also wanted to imitate the nobility even critical Minds would be infected by the

sweeping Euphoria even the quibbling voler could not restrain his praise finally a fragrance that doesn't stick to your body but instead gives flight to your

spirits suskin also sets his Jean Baptist grui in this era that is completely crazy for Fin's fragrance grui completes his

ingenious but murderous perfume in 1760 Giovani Farina however achieved something that The Loner grui who was finally arrested for his murders was

denied finina had recognized the sign of the times and had literally smelt the necessary change presenting the world with a new age of fragrance in doing so he produced the

very first brand perfume this had consequences for the 18th and 19th century and even until this very day the brothers finina receive orders

from all across Europe the order books are full and have been preserved to this day Giovani Farina died in peace a happy man

at the ripe old age of 80 in Cologne his legacy made Colona Metropolis for perfume and made his brother and his descendants very

wealthy suskin prepared a somewhat less tranquil end for his fictional character grui is torn apart by a horde of beggar and

devoured however the success story of the fers doesn't end with Giovani there are countless others who want to have a share of giovan's overwhelming success there are Finas springing up all over

cologne and all of them are producing some form of odor cologne some related others after purchasing the name forina even the packaging and designer

imitated the original fragrance is now hardly recognizable in the sea of similar products orbe it only in appearance the original secret formula for giovan's inheritance remains to this

day a closely guarded secret but to little effect the growth of Oda clone is now a generic international business Giovani Maria Farina was posthumously torn into a

thousand pieces another little parallel to susk Skin's story perhaps the imitators though are so unscrupulous that the real farinas have no choice other than to bring the entire matter before the

courts there was no protection of trademarks or property rights in the 18th century in fact we have the family finina to think that since 1875 we have

a trademark act since that time one has a chance to protect oneself from plagiarism finina is the oldest brand of perfume as documented since the 18th century but it's still copied to the

present day despite their efforts the Finas didn't manage to protect the actual name of Oda cologne it became instead a sort

of generic name for perfumes of a sort it is only with the addition of origanal that the original recipe has been protected since then the French Revolution also led to a

democratization of the fragrance there followed numerous variations onto the market that catered For the pockets of The Wider civilian population however many of them Beed no

relevance to farina's Masterpiece chel as with Chanel Number Five were an extra ingredient was introduced or with the success of oage in the 60s which had an artificial tint

of Jasmine they stand as Milestones within the perfume industry they managed to create something totally new something completely successful for many

it was an inspiration for New Creations chemists have worked for the last 200 years since giovan's death to create new techniques to better extract individual scent molecules in doing so

they have opened up a range of new possibilities for perfumers Koko Chanel was the first to recognize the advantages of the new techniques she commissioned the perfumer Ernest B to

improvise with these newly composed Aromas an entire gamut of possibilities are now open to experimentation individual sense are now categorized by numbers and symbols in

the case of Koko Chanel everything centers around the number [Music] five chel was fascinated with symbols

for her entire life and was very superstitious the number five was no accident the number five was actually her lucky

number of course it was the final result of the fragrance that persuaded her but it was her belief in symbols that ultimately influenced her

decision of all the 10 variations that her per Ernest Bo presented it was the number five that she went to

directly she smelt it and said that is my perfume in one fated step through the legendary number five Koko Chanel became

suddenly world famous the magic number five is the symbol for human and nature it is the symbol for Perfection her fragrance was to become a

perfume with a feminine in Nuance what else but a rose can stand as an embodiment of such Essentials as femininity eroticism and Beauty the Primal Rose has five petals

the symbol of the pentagram the true symbol of alchemy a fragrance filled with magic for Coco number five and as this unique creation which

will turn 100 soon was celebrated in May of 2013 in the Paris palet that Tokyo one can imagine that number five like farina's Legacy will be celebrated for

many years to [Music] come from Orit toou to Vanessa paredis nowadays it's always the models and

actresses that influence the style of a generation formerly it was to be a per to court today it is the stars that awake the desires of the

masses behind every famous fragrance hides a famous story and behind Susan's famous story a famous fragrance but that should

remain a [Music] secret

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