This escalated quickly...

If there's one thing you guys know about me, or maybe you don't, is I have raging ADHD.

I decided I want to change some loop stuff in here already. There's also some spots I'm not like too happy with in here. Like I'm not really that happy

here. Like I'm not really that happy with the flow meter temperature sensor.

I may or may not be able to clean that up. But so today, I'm going to change

up. But so today, I'm going to change out the radiators to the new ones that I got from Singularity Computer that I didn't know were coming. Otherwise, I

probably would have just used these.

Although, this build was done a bit before these came.

These are some thick boys. So,

that means where's the fittings? Okay, right there.

That means I'm going to have to kind of rearrange some stuff and hopefully this will fit in there. Yeah, it will. It's

bigger than Oh, boy.

Anyway, okay. So, I'm going to have to drain it first. Worst case scenario, if it doesn't work out, I can just put it all back together. The problem is I'm going to have to cut these tubes right here because as you can see these are 30 mil thick fans in there. I need to get

the side panel off. But those are 30 mil thick radiators with 25 mil thick fans.

And I'm not sure what the thickness of this rad is right here. This

looks like it's going to be like maybe a 50 mil rad. Looks looks bigger than a 45. I can measure it with my calipers,

45. I can measure it with my calipers, but uh I got one more.

I'm really curious now if we are going to have an issue of it lining up with my two tubes that are coming out of the distro plate reservoir. I also like that

I can take this and flip it. I'm also

curious as to what this will look like with it off. Let me just see. I'm not

really a fan of the PCB style and look of it, but if it doesn't look bad empty, I might just do that with nothing on

there. Cool thing is gives me a place to

there. Cool thing is gives me a place to make my own thing, I guess, if I wanted.

Pretty damn clean. I think we'll just go with that. I don't think these are going

with that. I don't think these are going to fit in here. Let me tell you why.

that sticks out, which would stick out right into this fan. This may not I may not be able to run these rads in this build because now I'm looking at the

overhang here cuz this is this is thicker than the radiator and the fans are now. Well, shoot. this derailed

are now. Well, shoot. this derailed

before it even started because now if I look at it up here, if we add the fans, it's going to not only interfere with um hitting potentially

the ram, I'm going to have to have a fitting here, like a 90° fitting to bring it down and clear that. But that

thickness looks like it might potentially even hit right there. Oh

man, that sucks. Cuz the reason why I wanted to run these these thicker rads for even more cooling was because uh everything temperature- wise dang it

skin whatever the everything temperature- wise on here was really good on the 5090 until I added the two 4K OLEDs and I got

rid of my 4K by600p ultrawide and then I had 27in 4K. Now 4K

is 4K regardless of the of the dimensions, but once I added the second 4K on there OLED that was at 240 Hz. So

raising the resolution and raising the refresh rate put the GPU under more load because the GPU can and I do run I do run G-Sync and I do run uh sync tech. I

don't want the GPU just running to max temps, max clocks for no reason. If I

can hit the refresh rate of my panel, we're good. Okay. And so once I went

we're good. Okay. And so once I went from a 144, which I was running at 120, I had it locked to 120. That way when I'm doing a 60 fps stream, it's a perfect

like uh factor of two basically. So it's

60 fps stream grabbing 120 frames per second and then basically every other frame is getting drawn into the into the uh live stream, which is making a very smooth experience. if I had it on a

smooth experience. if I had it on a number like 144 or 200 or something weird like that, the fra the stream could get choppy or it could get some weird um where it's trying to draw a frame in between a frame being sent to

it. So, it was just nice having it

it. So, it was just nice having it locked into a factor of 60, right? So,

my GPU temps were going from like 42 43 under load with a coolant temp of like 34 33 34 on average. My GPU was now hitting 50 with coolant temp hitting 40.

And that's simply because of the fact that there's more load coming off the GPU. Like the GPU was normally sitting

GPU. Like the GPU was normally sitting in like the 450 maybe 500 watt range. Um

now it can go up to the full 600 when gaming simply because of 4K and HDR is on. I mean I was like if you're going to

on. I mean I was like if you're going to run an OLED and not have HDR on, what's the point of having an OLED as well? So

that's why I wanted to that's why I wanted to change the radiators.

Damned if these aren't like much thicker boys than I thought in multiple ways.

I'm not about to change the case again.

All right, let me think about this for a minute cuz this changes everything. Oh,

and remember all the microbubbles? Like

I was saying, over time, especially as they get hot, like as the coolant gets hot, those bubbles will release and let go. You can see my coolant level.

go. You can see my coolant level.

Well, it actually dropped down to about right here. You can see the line, but

right here. You can see the line, but because it laid down flat in the car when I was getting it here, um the coolant level rose because now there the air moved somewhere else. All right, let me think about this. All right, so here's what we're probably going to do.

I'm probably going to change out the bottom rad because I can't see the top rad anyway. I also just realized it'll

rad anyway. I also just realized it'll it'll definitely more than likely interfere cuz it's thicker on the side as well. This this little like rolled

as well. This this little like rolled edge right here adds thickness. So,

I think it'll hit up here on the motherboard as well.

And then not only that, let's say I did get this to squeeze up there somehow.

I don't know if I'd ever be able to get the RAM out. Now, one thing I've noticed, too, is that my pump speed has been sort of slowing down just a little bit over time. Um,

yeah, it's maxed out. The pump flow I used to see was like 1.8 8 1.9 L per minute. And then this morning when I

minute. And then this morning when I turned it on, it was like 1.6. But this

is a glycol based coolant. And it was 20C in my bedroom or in my game room when I turned it on. And so what I tend to notice is when it's really cold, it's a little bit thicker of a viscosity. So

then the pump obviously moves it a little bit slower. And then as the system gets to full operating temp or the coolant up in like the 30s, then it bumps up to like 1819. But I'm wondering now. I don't see anything like clogging

now. I don't see anything like clogging up in the block right here cuz I can see up inside the blocks. That's the nice thing about clear blocks. Oh,

maybe not.

This is building up in the block right there. This is the same This is the

there. This is the same This is the Corsair coolant. The same coolant that

Corsair coolant. The same coolant that Phil's used. And Phil dealt with this as

Phil's used. And Phil dealt with this as well. But remember, I added blue dye.

well. But remember, I added blue dye.

And that's a that's a dye that came with or came from Primo Chill. I don't know if this is a reaction from the dye

and the uh and the coolant. So, I

noticed the blue started disappearing.

See how it looks almost most mostly clear on camera right now. I added blue dye to this after the build before Phil did his montage. That's why the montage it looked more blue um versus the video.

And I noticed it was disappearing. But

look, you can even see some blue globs right there in the block.

So, this is now turned into a can I fit the lower rad? If so, great. But now we need to do some maintenance. Now, I can see inside the CPU block. It's also

built up in there, too. That now

explains why the I was noticing the pump starting to slow down.

3 L per minute slowdown on a D5 is a lot. Now, the cool thing about going to

lot. Now, the cool thing about going to a thicker rad like this is this was this will actually relieve some of the restriction because this is a 60 mil rad. I just measured it. basically have

rad. I just measured it. basically have

double the amount of flow through the rad because of the more it's either going to be larger rows. Yeah, they're

just larger rows, which essentially is like opening up the tubing diameter, which means more flow. So, fortunately,

if I go to this, that means I should have less of a flow issue. More reasons

why water cooling is so stupid. You know

what? I still love it. Shut up.

Now that that is drained, I'll never like gravity feed or I I will always vacuum fill and pressure drain. I will

never vacuum or uh gravity bleed anything anymore. I'll never gravity

anything anymore. I'll never gravity drain anything anymore except the lizard. Actually, I guess there's

lizard. Actually, I guess there's pressure in there.

>> Yeah, there's pressure, too.

>> All right. Well, I got to get the blocks out. There it is with the darer thermal

out. There it is with the darer thermal grizzly bower block. All right. Well,

you know, this is typically what happens. Things become a little bit of a

happens. Things become a little bit of a snowball effect. Although, in my

snowball effect. Although, in my instance, when I do stuff like this, the snowball feels more like Christmas vacation where he's on his little saucer

that he like used his like special lubricant from work on. He was like one, two, and it's on fire. Like, that's what it feels like for me. Like, that's my

snowball. It's not like a slow roll.

snowball. It's not like a slow roll.

It's just a of power behind it falling apart.

>> Protect those with your life. Yeah.

>> Now, I'm going to stick with the Dar Bower stuff, the thermal grizzly stuff right now. But don't forget,

right now. But don't forget, uh, Singularity did send me their blocks, too, but I would have to then redo all the tubing, most of the tubing anyway, cuz they're not going to land in the same spot. So, I'm not going to do

that. Well, I think we already know what

that. Well, I think we already know what we're going to find in here.

Fortunately, I should be able to get this pretty clean, pretty easily.

It looked worse.

It really looked worse through the cover right there. Okay, whatever. The

exception of a little discoloration.

That's perfectly clear. So, I don't know. Maybe I'm just having a stroke.

know. Maybe I'm just having a stroke.

Okay, I cleaned Obviously, I cleaned up the block. You guys saw that. That was

the block. You guys saw that. That was

almost just more for good measure than anything else at this point. All right.

Well, now once I'm done putting this back in, we get to tear into that, which should be pretty easy, actually.

>> Oh, man. Do you know how many times I've torn one of these apart? Like, it's just it's easy, but it's just like, come on.

I don't want to do this anymore. Need to

get the nut off. Hey, it does have the center removable plate, so I don't have to disassemble the entire block. This is

actually really brilliant. I like this too because I know Dar Bower did this not only for like easy to service, but he I think he did this so if he ever improves the design, you can just switch it out.

See how easy that is? That part's nice and clean. It's fine.

and clean. It's fine.

Ew. I It's not terrible. Like this was not affecting my flow rate to be honest, but I might as well clean that out while I'm here, right?

>> It's really not that bad though. Like

it's truly not.

I mean, see, it's soft. Look at that.

>> Oh, yeah.

>> Nowhere near as bad as my blocks were.

>> Yours needed to be replaced.

>> Yeah. Like, hold on. They were ruined.

Like, >> I love that center plate design. I was I thought this had that. I know the Corsair does for sure, but now I want to ask their Bower like, "Are

you working on any insert changes?"

Probably not. I think what you just saw right now is the entire reason why this exists. Uh, I'm going to give a little

exists. Uh, I'm going to give a little bit of a pass for for one particular reason. Like,

this isn't uh this isn't the fault of the I don't think this is the fault of the coolant, the Corsair coolant. Let me explain why.

If you recall, I initially had this build in my Lightbase 900 uh be quiet case. And when I did that

case, initially I reused my EK 360 radiators, which had been used in other builds.

with other components and other fluids.

And I didn't do like a full-on flush or anything like that on it. So, it's

possible that the stuff we're seeing built up in here right now was kicking it in those older radiators. And and

I've reused the fittings, too, which have some some discoloration and stuff in them. So, it's quite possible that

in them. So, it's quite possible that this issue happening quickly like this is because of that. It's not because of the coolant

of that. It's not because of the coolant itself. Now, that doesn't change the

itself. Now, that doesn't change the fact that Phil's did it, too. But the

fact is Phil's system also had older like reused parts like his reservoir uh is the Bits Power Square res and uh it's

like a cube. It's pretty neat looking.

Uh but anyway, that came out of my old build. It was in my black ice build. So,

build. It was in my black ice build. So,

again, reused parts. So, I think it's just it really goes to show the importance of properly flushing and cleaning out your parts. Also too, you can run an inline filter. Like Aqua

Computer makes one. I've used it in systems in the past, like just to clean out the system before I built it, but you could run a full-time filter in there as well if you wanted. So, I think I'm going to go liquid metal on this,

but I wanted I need to make a moat like this. I'm just using the foam. It was

this. I'm just using the foam. It was

actually intended for I don't know, but fortunately, the foam spreads nicely, and the foam would just give me something to keep the liquid metal in place. We have all of the

components that are around the die that we obviously don't want to be sitting there with liquid metal ever making its way there. So, I'm going to put clear

way there. So, I'm going to put clear nail polish around there, which is fine.

It's not going to hurt anything. It's

just for good measure. The moat, if it's doing its job, it should never make its way over to there. So, fortunately, the foam spreads out then like it stretches, which is cool because that means when I compress it down, it'll be a little bit

denser even. Um, but yeah, I think I'm

denser even. Um, but yeah, I think I'm going to go liquid metal on this. Why

not, right? Why not keep it as cool as possible just for the hell of it? I've

never run liquid metal daily. It

shouldn't hurt this long term. All

right, so I've gone ahead and put the clear nail polish on there. I whether I do liquid metal or not, this is not going to hurt anything. So, but I'm using a UV light. This is a gel coat.

It's a gel. So, I can use a UV light to actually harden it.

I want to flip the block onto the card, not the card onto the block because I do not want any of it to roll or move on its own. Line it up the first time.

its own. Line it up the first time.

There we go. Oh, I felt it squish. I get

to use my water cooling testing station that I built cuz I want to make sure that under load everything's good. I'm

not seeing any weird hot spot. Even

though I can't see hot spot, um it'll still throttle if there's there's an invisible hotspot temp on this card on all 5090s. You just can't see them

all 5090s. You just can't see them anymore. But if there is a spot that the

anymore. But if there is a spot that the LM isn't touching or say the foam flopped over onto it and is stopping contact, it'll be apparent in the boost clocks. Okay, so here we go. It's all

clocks. Okay, so here we go. It's all

plumbed up into my quick disconnects.

Everything's going in the right order, so I did that correctly. They can only go the right way, honestly. Um, so I need to now bleed this. Let's just turn

my pump on.

So you'll see it bleed through here.

There it goes.

It's currently idling at 21C.

I don't have a I should have put a loop uh temperature gauge like to monitor the coolant temp, but I bet you the coolant temp is around 22C right now because

that's the temperature of the room. Um,

Okay, let's go to heaven first cuz it's the best test of any of the testing for testing purposes. Okay, the GP is at 33

testing purposes. Okay, the GP is at 33 series.

Dang, >> I think the LM is working. Now, here's

the thing on my loop at home. Obviously,

this has a 560 and a 280 rad. there is a lot a lot of freaking uh surface area but my system at home even

running like cement or uh heaven like this would spike right to like 38 39 and that's before any saturation of the coolant temp could have happened so I

think the LM is working okay cool I'm happy okay so it does fit and even in the most rear rearward position with that fitting that hangs out

it doesn't hit. So, that's the only adjustment I have in it. It's not a lot.

That fan's not doing a whole lot. I

mean, I I in my smoke testing, it does absolutely like create what appears to be like a double channel in here. So,

you have like the graphics card, which would be like the middle. The heat,

according to the flow testing I showed with smoke, came up and went right out the back. And the bottom, it comes in

the back. And the bottom, it comes in and goes right out the back. So, my both my rads are intakes on this. And so,

that does help promote it to escape in the rear. Um, I want to keep that that

the rear. Um, I want to keep that that way. So, I don't want to remove the fan,

way. So, I don't want to remove the fan, but then also it's aesthetically pleasing to see the, you know, the the symmetry of one on top and one on the bottom.

I used up all my luck on the jack black thing. So, that top right pin right

thing. So, that top right pin right there. It just pushed itself back in.

there. It just pushed itself back in.

So, check this out. Look at that. It's

all like, see, it's shallower and like pushed down. It's like it somehow got bent and

down. It's like it somehow got bent and misaligned. So, when I went to put my

misaligned. So, when I went to put my plug in right now, I just shoved it back. Son of a I just

back. Son of a I just at least I'll get to see how my moat worked.

Pretty good, actually. Yeah. See, it's

pushed down. See that? It's like

crooked. It's like It's like down and this way. This is not something someone should have to do on a $3,000 card. It's not something anyone should

card. It's not something anyone should have to do on a $50 card.

I wish I could replace this myself, but because there's so much ground plane on there, like you have to heat the whole board to get it off. But I've tried I've tried

on other boards over here to do it. Like

it may not have been.

You can kind of see where I attempted right here. It's still all kinds of flux

right here. It's still all kinds of flux on there. I attempted to get these off.

on there. I attempted to get these off.

I could never get the solder like hot enough. I would have to heat the whole

enough. I would have to heat the whole board obviously because it's all connected to the ground plane which connected the entire board together. I

have the heater. That's fine.

But I could really ruin this cuz I have to get the two stability rods right there.

All 12 six of the 12 volts, six of the ground, and then the four sense pins all heated up without overheating it anywhere on these small components

around it. These are smaller junctions

around it. These are smaller junctions than say this guy like when I was testing. Look at this. Look at the

testing. Look at this. Look at the thickness of those. Right. These are

much smaller junctions which I think might be a lot easier. But I don't really have a card to practice on. I

don't want to take the risk. I also

don't want two 5090s over here that are like dead.

All right. So, I went to my wall of astrals and just grabbed grabbed another one, which is funny because I actually found that one the pin was bending in too. All of them have pins that can push

too. All of them have pins that can push in. So,

in. So, that I don't know how you stop that. So,

I guess it's very important to make sure that you're that everything's centered, but you're not going to know like if you're feeling a lot of resistance, you could be shoving that pin in and all it takes is one time and that's it. So, I've got two

cards I have to get repaired.

Fortunately, this one's okay. I was able to push that pin back because it was only back a little bit. And I was able to get a flathead from my iFixit kit and just sort of shove it back. And I did some testing with this plug to make sure

everything's good. And we do appear to

everything's good. And we do appear to be good. I did not do a test with this

be good. I did not do a test with this card over there on the test station. I

did put liquid metal on there. I didn't

do the moat though this time. The foam

actually got kind of saturated with the liquid metal that was already on there.

Um, so I just did the same thing of painting a, you know, clear nail polish, heavy nail polish gel all around the dye. That way nothing can corrode in

dye. That way nothing can corrode in there and and mess up any of those surface mounted things. This is the little adapter that we made out of ABS um to basically a bracket that I can

mount my sensor panel to. And then now instead of it being on the back wall, which isn't going to look good because I don't have a flat wall to mount it against because now we've added basically uh 30 more millimeters of

overall height on here, I am going to mount this. So I got these two screws or

mount this. So I got these two screws or four screws technically on the back, but I got two holes right there that I can mount to there. And then I'm going to mount I have to, you know, measure and

drill the holes. I'm going to mount these to that right there. So then it'll essentially be, you know, kind of like this. So the

whole bottom section is getting kind of busy, but that's okay. You'll notice I left this here. I did consider putting it up here. I even considered putting it right here. You might look at this tube

right here. You might look at this tube and be like, "What the hell? That tube

wasn't there before." That's cuz I decided not to use the distro plate aspect of the distro plate. And you can see I even filled it with fluid and then capped it off because I otherwise it would look like that. So, there's fluid

in that run right there that normally would come over here to the GPU, but I figured this looked better this way because without the extra fittings over here, it like in going that way, it didn't look too busy right there. So, it

looks a little more balanced. And then

because I have this sort of dual chamber thing going on, like I said, the top and the bottom. This kind of fills in that

the bottom. This kind of fills in that theme of like matching that run with this run here. So, I like this better overall. So, what I have left to do now

overall. So, what I have left to do now is I've already given myself some slack so I can now more neatly run my sensor panel. I'm going to have to unzip tie

panel. I'm going to have to unzip tie those and get it all nice and pretty and I don't know, run it down along there or something so you can't really see it.

Um, like I said, that's going to end up being like kind of like right there.

Sort of hides that cable a little bit.

But yeah, I think we're almost we're almost there.

Like I said, this was this was like this wasn't snowballed into a bigger project.

This was shotguned into a big bigger project. So, I have to make myself a

project. So, I have to make myself a jig. Not a jig, but like I'm going to

jig. Not a jig, but like I'm going to probably just make myself a template, take a piece of paper, poke holes, transfer it over to that, drill holes, and then I know these are 124 mm apart

right there. Um, 140 mm fans are 124 mm

right there. Um, 140 mm fans are 124 mm apart. Center on the stud. Just a quick

apart. Center on the stud. Just a quick sanity check. Holding air. Remember, if

sanity check. Holding air. Remember, if

it holds air, it'll hold fluid. Oh, what

the Okay, it vacuumed out some of the stuff that was still in the upper rack.

Okay, vacuum fill time. This is the part many of you have never seen. This is my favorite part. I'm just going clear. Not

favorite part. I'm just going clear. Not

going to do any blue or anything like that. It's fine. I got so much RGB in

that. It's fine. I got so much RGB in there, you couldn't even really notice the blue. Anyway, 2 lers in here cuz I

the blue. Anyway, 2 lers in here cuz I know for a fact it holds more than one liter. Especially with the size of that

liter. Especially with the size of that lower rad, it's going to hold a good amount of fluid. One thing I can do too that will kind of help with gravity is

to lay this more flat.

That way it just has to go and not up against gravity.

If I can understand it, that's all that matters. Let's get my vacuum going.

matters. Let's get my vacuum going.

Still climbing. The problem is this this tube collapses.

It's almost like I need to get a better like a firmer tube here. So, this one's like more like a vinyl tube. You see

it's very soft.

That's going to hold its shape better.

Yeah, it's not collapsing.

Cool.

Close that off. Now it's holding vacuum.

I can now take this and open it up and it should pull it in.

Oh, it's pulling air.

I was like, it's fotting.

Why is it farting? Okay, it pulled a little air in, but that's okay cuz there should be enough coolant in here for me to at least get the pump turning, which is all that matters.

Look at the flow rate already.

>> Oh.

>> Oh, it dried out. Ow, that's my finger.

>> Okay, now I just get to fill this up the old fashioned way. I was already seeing more flow rate at cold than I ever did.

>> That's cuz the lower rad is less restriction.

Need to get this into Windows, too. That

way, it can load up my IQ profile, which speeds up my fans. All right. Well,

the exception of that, which is just cuz that's the only display it sees, is done. I've got liquid metal all over the

done. I've got liquid metal all over the table I got to clean off. I did

everything I wanted to do with the exception of getting the top one in there, but because that was an impossible fit. Kind of like me in a

impossible fit. Kind of like me in a large. Check this out. Coolant temps

large. Check this out. Coolant temps

22.9. Core is at 23 on the GPU. The

liquid metal can actually keep it closer to the loop temp. Okay, run heaven full screen. Can see everything on my sensor

screen. Can see everything on my sensor panel. This is why these are so awesome.

panel. This is why these are so awesome.

I can see my per pins right there, too.

So, I'll know if one of those is weird.

Okay. Nope. They all seem to be pretty even so far. So, that's good. Look at

that. Right up to 33. Isn't that the same it was on the big old giant one?

Yeah. With those temps, I had a 100 core and a 10,000 RAM on here I didn't even realize was active. So, at 600 watts, it's currently at 41C infirm mark, which makes perfect sense. I'm okay with this.

There's always going to be it's it's never going to be perfectly level. So,

cores is at just over 1 volt or 520 watts. Yeah, I'm happy with this. I

watts. Yeah, I'm happy with this. I

would call this a success. Not only

that, look, as the temperature goes up on the coolant, damn it, it went away.

It was 2.3, but as There it goes. As

this warms up, the viscosity thins out a little bit cuz it is glycol. And so, it actually gets better flow as it gets warmer. But I'm just curious now. I want

warmer. But I'm just curious now. I want

to I'm going to let this run for a while. I'm just curious as to what the

while. I'm just curious as to what the like loop temp's going to get to. So

far, the loop is staying way way cooler.

Like already at home, it would have been in like the in the 30s already, even just after that run, cuz there's so much heat coming off the GPU. All right,

guys. I'm going to get out of here. Uh,

I got a different video I got to get up and then uh I'm just going to let this thing run. So, hopefully you guys

thing run. So, hopefully you guys learned something today. What it was, I probably just don't do this. I don't

know, but I'm always going to do this.

I'm an enthusiast for it. Um, this this is fun to me. It really is. I know some people were like, "Wow, he must be a Sato masochist." this. But no, not

Sato masochist." this. But no, not really. I just some this I just like the

really. I just some this I just like the way this looks and stuff and that's more fun to me than just looking at an air cooler. So, you do whatever works for

cooler. So, you do whatever works for you, I guess. Uh, loop full screen and go. All right, guys. Thanks for

go. All right, guys. Thanks for

watching. See you in the next one.