Top 5 Techniques for creating position, navigation, and landing lights - Tutorial Level: Advanced

Hello fellow modelers. In today's video, I would like to share my top five favorite techniques for creating position, navigation, and landing lights. Let's start by making them from

lights. Let's start by making them from scratch. Older kits often don't come

scratch. Older kits often don't come with a clear parts for the details. So,

you will need to cut a bit of plastic using a razor saw or hobby blade. It's

really helpful to have a blueprints or good photo references on hand. Using

masking tape can help guide your cuts. I

prefer razor saw because it makes a nice clean and thin cut. This Mirage model has a position lights on the leading edge. However, since the wing is quite

edge. However, since the wing is quite thin and rounded, the best approach is to use a clear plastic. You can use leftover clear plastic sprew for this.

Keep in mind that not all position lights are clear. Many features lovely transparent covers in red, green, or blue. Personally, I like to use

blue. Personally, I like to use transparent plastic from old flint lighters. They are very affordable and

lighters. They are very affordable and come in variety of shades. Before you

start cutting, make sure to get rid of a gas. You can unscrew the top section and

gas. You can unscrew the top section and let it evaporate. Or some lighters might have a refilling vans underneath. One

lighter can last for years since you only need a small amount of a plastic for your project. I attach this small piece using a thin glue, but I also reinforce it with a super glue for

stronger bond. The plastic used in

stronger bond. The plastic used in lighter is quite rigid and beautifully transparent, making it ideal for what we need. This bright shade of a green may

need. This bright shade of a green may be a bit too vivid, but don't worry, the darker fin lighters are available if you prefer. Once the glue has fewy cured, I

prefer. Once the glue has fewy cured, I can smooth a clear plastic block using a nail file. I typically use smooth

nail file. I typically use smooth sandpaper for polishing, but if you want even better finish, the polishing compound works lovely. I highly

recommend this technique for thin or curved wings. While it does take some

curved wings. While it does take some time, you cannot achieve this effect properly with a paint. Transparent

lights needs to be actually transparent.

Another option I have mentioned is using a leftover clear plastic sprew. Though

the downside is that you will need to paint them with a transparent paint if you are aiming for red or green. The

sprew is usually round. So you will need to have a flatten it for a proper fit.

After that is just like working with a lighter plastic. Smooth it out with a

lighter plastic. Smooth it out with a nail file to match the surface contours and then polish it up.

The second technique I recommend is to imitate new cover glass on the landing lights. Typically the clear part is

lights. Typically the clear part is located on the leading edge. It tends to be fairly large. The plexiglass use is thin and has a nice level of a

transparency. Some kits completely like

transparency. Some kits completely like this feature, which means you will need to cut out plastic and add a light inside. Modern kits do come with a clear

inside. Modern kits do come with a clear parts, but they are often too thick.

Therefore, I have a more efficient and realistic method to tackle this issue.

Start by adding some details to the interior. Instead of using plastic foil

interior. Instead of using plastic foil or resin covers, opt for this crystal tape by 3M. While classic clear packaging tape can work, this tape aderes well to the model surface and

provides excellent transparency. Make

sure there are no dust particles trapped inside the wing as they will stick to the tape. Also, take care to avoid

the tape. Also, take care to avoid fingerprints. Simply don't touch the

fingerprints. Simply don't touch the tape on the cover glass. Now, carefully

trim away the excess tape and it's wise to switch to fresh blade for this task.

You will notice that the frame is actually present on the actual machine as well. The foil is quite thin,

as well. The foil is quite thin, allowing you to easily see all the intricate details inside. Of course, you can apply the tape after painting, but it's also perfectly fine to use a yellow

masking tape and then spray camouflage over it. As I mentioned, the tape holds

over it. As I mentioned, the tape holds firmly in place, so there is no risk of it pinning off. You might also be concerned that the tape will be raised

above the surface, but as you can see, it is hardly noticeable. Primarily this

tape thickness gives a more rarestic look. The application is straightforward

look. The application is straightforward and is fully transparent. You can secure the edges with a bit of super glue but is not necessary. I have had this tape on my model for 5 years and is still

holding strong. The third technique

holding strong. The third technique represents a modern approach. The

navigation light is typically clear with only a bulb itself pink, red or green.

You can use residual plastic sprew, drill a hole inside, paint it, but in the end it doesn't look all right.

That's why I prefer to create the light using a styrene profile. Silver is the best base for any light. Nowadays, the

UV resin is a gamecher. It dries in a few seconds and is incredibly strong. I

use this jewelry UV resin, but you can also find this product in your local model shop as it appears same. I

recently started experimenting with a transparent resin pigments which allow me to mix small amount of a pigment with a resin to achieve any color shade I want to cure the resin. I typically use

UV flashlight. Alternatively, you can

UV flashlight. Alternatively, you can also use UV curing station for nails or 3D printing. The curing process takes

3D printing. The curing process takes just a few seconds. I am working in 48 scale and the light bulb I created looks lovely. Now I can craft clear cover

lovely. Now I can craft clear cover glass by applying several layers of UV resin using a toothpick for precision.

It's important to avoid bubbles in resin. The resin consistency is good but

resin. The resin consistency is good but is too tricky to make a uniform light in one layer. That is why I apply a small

one layer. That is why I apply a small amount of resin, cure it with a UV flashlight, then apply another layer and so on, repeating this process until I

achieve the desired shape. At the first glance, it looks neat and precise. But

since the shape isn't exactly reproduction of the wing, I had to sand it down and smooth it out using a soft nail file. The cured resin is incredibly

nail file. The cured resin is incredibly strong and easy to polish, much like working with a plastic parts. One of the resin's biggest advantages is the ability to create the perfectly seamless

bond. This technique opens up

bond. This technique opens up possibilities for intricate deals such as incorporating a light bulb or even adding wires or bolts inside. Okay, it

does take some effort, but I have to say it looks significantly better than the original kit part. But that is not all.

You can also use pigments and UV resin for variety of other applications like recognition lights, formation lights, navy approaching lights, instrument

panel cover glasses or reconnaissance camera covers. And if you do not have a

camera covers. And if you do not have a pigments on hand, Tamilia transparent paints works just fine. And in theory, you do not even need UV light for

curing. Sunlight can do the trick in

curing. Sunlight can do the trick in just a few minutes. One more thing to note is that the transparent pigments wouldn't interfere with the curing process. They may take some few extra

process. They may take some few extra seconds to set in thick layer, but in thin layer you wouldn't even notice the difference.

The other problem is raised drop shaped lights. Let me first show you a

lights. Let me first show you a technique that I moved away from. In

older Edward photo edge sets, you can find a drop-shaped holes along the edges. It is template for the lights.

edges. It is template for the lights.

You can heat the residual plastic sprew with a lighter in case you kept some operational. Once the plastic sprew is

operational. Once the plastic sprew is melted but not on fire, press it into the metal template. The result you get is a lovely drop-shaped light. Cut it

with a blade. These parts are tiny, so it is best to manipulate them with a sharp tweezers and it's gone. When I

made a new one, I attach it to the model. In practice, the clear parts are

model. In practice, the clear parts are applied after painting. I tend to avoid this method because it can be tricky to create two or more identical lights.

However, with a patience and some practice, you can definitely get it right. To change the color of the

right. To change the color of the lights, I use Tamilia enamel paints.

This enamel paints works beautifully with a brush and create a nice uniform layer with a minimal effort. If you have access to 3D printer or know someone who

does, I designed 50 different light shapes. Each print comes out identical.

shapes. Each print comes out identical.

So if you need multiple copies, this method is the most precise. Plus, you

can resize them to fit any scale. I

print them from clear resin, but it's not a problem to change the shade with a Tamilia enamel transparent paints. You

can notice that the cure clear resin may appear slightly foggy, but in the touch of a clear varnish or transparent paint can effectively restore the original

clarity. Another effective technique is

clarity. Another effective technique is casting. Don't worry, nothing difficult.

casting. Don't worry, nothing difficult.

Many kits have a drop lights already indicated on the model, but they are cast from gray plastic. The best way to replicate these shapes is to create a mold and cast new lines from clear

resin. You do not need to invest in

resin. You do not need to invest in expensive casting materials. I use

affordable reusable thermoplastic called ouaru or blue stuff. Simply, this

material becomes flexible when heated in hot water, but maintains its shape when it cools down and it's not sticky, making it ideal for creating molds of a

fine details. Next, simply apply a small

fine details. Next, simply apply a small amount of UV resin and cure it. After

that, all that is left to do is cut out the original plastic light and replace it with a new clear resin version.

Simply lovely.

Small bonus, I conducted a small test using a Mirage model in 48 scale, which comes with a reconnaissance nose featuring numerous holes. Unfortunately, there are

numerous holes. Unfortunately, there are no clear parts available for this section. To address this, I decided to

section. To address this, I decided to experiment with a UV resin to create a new cover glasses. Working with a clear plastic to make a precise parts would be

quite challenging. The UV resin I use

quite challenging. The UV resin I use has a high viscosity and its surface tension allows it to fill even this with large holes effectively. Plus, the

layering advantage means you can create a nice rounded glass surface. After

smoothing and polishing the covers, I was pleased with the result. It's clear

that the resin seamlessly captured the shapes of the holes, making it easier than trying to carve the shapes from plastic boards or similar materials.

This resin application took only a few minutes. Theoretically, UV resin can

minutes. Theoretically, UV resin can also serves as a filler for large repairs as it forms a strong bond and can blend with the surrounding surface shapes. And with this bombshell, we are

shapes. And with this bombshell, we are done. I hope you have learned something

done. I hope you have learned something new and try out some of these techniques in your next project. Thank you for watching and see you next time with another model or tutorial. And special

thanks to my patreons for their support.

These videos wouldn't be possible without you.